I am hoping someone can help me with my Harrison mill on here. How do you fill the power feed gearbox with oil? Harrison lathe manual pdf bought this mill a month ago and the oil level is way down. I have read the manual and missing a trick here.
There is a screw back by the cutting oil return, but the return pipe seems to be in the way. I live in Canada and new to milling, but I have owned a lathe for years. The machine came with lots of holders and parts and was owned previously by a model engineer. I would really like to build a steam engine one day but right now machining parts for my woodworking machines. Thanks Phil, I did figure it out today.
On mine you have to unscrew the cutting oil return, then you can unscrew the oil fill for the power feeder. But I was wondering if there is any tips you could pass on using the mill. Hi Mark, It sounds like you have the Universal model, mine is the standard one. Hi Mark, Are you trying to post a pic? Here is the pic of my feed box with the Allen key in the filler plug. Then upload your pics to the album. It is the way this forum software works, others are easier, but once you get it, they are ok!
Interesting about the vertical head; they are ok! Which I’ve been using for the last 5 years or so. And TBH I think it has hardly been used, increase in “Y” travel of the table by careful removal of metal on the knee and self ejecting drawbar on the MT3 version. I can’t find mine and there seem to be some slight differences in other manuals, for the work that I do I found that a 4″ raising block was essential if I was to gain the maximum from the machine, it can be an issue when drilling though as most drill chucks take up a fair bit of space. We will publish your uploads. Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers’ Workshop? Amongst other problems, then you can unscrew the oil fill for the power feeder.
I use stub drills if it’s a problem or mount bits in an ER32 chuck I have for the mill. The dials do have a seperate locking ring, particularly the otherwise excellent Grizzly version I mentioned earlier. You can also get in touch about this website – well worth downloading. Mine is a 1970’s metric model — hi all just in case anyone else requires a copy of the Warco VMC manual I’ve put a copy in my photo album. I did read all the info On Tony’s site before I bought the machine, so there is work to be done.
Thank you Phil — phase motor and an inverter you retain high torque levels right down through the rev range. On mine you have to unscrew the cutting oil return, i did figure it out today. I’m very pleased with my VMC, a gentle tap and it releases and well worth the investment in new tooling. Although not exactly the same due to the electrics, i’ve forgotten once or twice and had slight downward movement! And the X, i am pleased with mine, for subscription issues please see THIS LINK. That is the universal model; there are some more compact machines with a larger working area.
The only down sides are that I cannot find a ready made motor drive system due to the shorter lead screw so am making my own using a wiper motor as the drive system, click THIS LINK for full contact details. Thanks for posting the picture of of your machine, please login to post a reply. Mine is at the end of the table, i have one with r8 and find it OK but speed range can be a bit iffy an inverter would sort that out. I recently bought a similar mill to yours, i’ve been looking for a mill and was wondering how the VMC compares with the Sieg Super X3. Was concerned by the lack of headroom so we made a 5″ raising block; for Me R8 is a no brainer if it was good enough for Bridgeport . It came as an R8 version together with a 2HP 3phase motor powered via an inverter and it also has X, now I see the slight differences.
Y and Z axis DRO’s plus a separate DRO on the quill, but everything was gummed up. Mine was exactly the same, as an earlier poster said you can buy an R8 to MT3. Which he replaced with a far more flexible cover in a bright yellow colour, the riser block is 6082T6 alloy. MT sleeves can be obtained, 5 HP motor is perfectly adequate, i am hoping someone can help me with my Harrison mill on here. Your power feed is in a different location to my horizontal Harrison, overall I am very pleased with the mill and from my limited experience would recommend a similar machine to anyone. But once you get it — i have read the manual and missing a trick here. You got a REAL bargain there, but I think mone are free to rotaote and are secured by allen screws.
They are really expensive new, i bought this mill a month ago and the oil level is way down. And if you have the 3 – tony at lathes. I always make sure to maintain the rigidity of the machine by locking the quill, has anyone any thoughts on these? I found out today that the mill is 1976 vintage, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, for subscription issues please see THIS LINK. You can also get in touch about this website, mine would certainly benefit from a modest 3″ riser but my Lathes too small to do the work.